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Es Vedrà – isn’t it a great view?
It’s even more spectacular when standing on Ibiza’s rock coast in the sun in a light breeze admiring the towering islet face to face – seems really huge then… One of the iconic spots in Ibiza: pure, serene, wild, lonely, mystic… a natural landmark. You may get a hint why Ibiza in the 70s & 80s became a hotspot for all the hippies & dropouts.
However, if there is one thing you associate typically & instantly w/ Ibiza nowadays… it’s partying!
So… what to expect when going to Ibiza in March?
It’s beyond any summer/party/fun season, it’s beyond any 30+° C. There aren’t so many tourist crowds… it’s a calm island in the sun – that’s at least what my better half & I found when we arrived.
We had planned to escape the rest-of-winter feeling at home, the rainy days, the haze all day long, the cold… We imagined some lonely idyll in the sun: blue ocean, blue skies, brilliant sun & at least warm enough to walk anywhere w/ just a T-shirt & thin summer jeans. We anticipated sitting outside cafés with café solo & chilled white wine, plates loaded w/ tapas… enjoying la dolce far niente in Spain!
…& for our week it was exactly what we had hoped for! We relaxed, we read a lot of books, we walked along the beach, we strolled around the port bay & across the old town Dalt Vila, rented a car & made some excursion across the island.
…& our reliable travel companion helped us not to get lost:
Were there any setbacks?
Well – a great deal of cafés, bars, restaurants, shops etc. are closed in March. Even the famous hippie markets are deserted. So we had to confine ourselves w/ a small variety, however, it was fine for us. Slowness & quietness rule the scene. The boats & ships in the harbor are still wrapped up from the winter season. The old town Dalt Vila is rather empty – refreshingly empty. Beaches are beautifully lonely except that the water is still rather cold. Too cold.
We lived in Talamanca, walked to its harbour front & boarded a water taxi to Ibiza town (it’s about 10 min across the port bay). When approaching from Talamanca you are greeted by the old town, the fortress & the cathedral – and this jungle of white houses where there is party during high season in summer (one of the party spots…).
For the record:
We once made our way along the harbour front from Talamanca to Ibiza town – it’s about an hour or somewhat more. You’ll get an impressive impression of the boats & ships chilling in the sun – unfortunately there’s almost no shade!
In Ibiza town we focused on Dalt Vila & it’s sprawl.
From sea level we walked up to the entrance of Dalt Vila guarded by Roman statues (replicas… of course). The fortress is very well maintained (Unesco World Heritage) and when walking the serpentine alleyways to the top you get lots of spectacular views from the ramparts all over the port.
For the record:
To be honest I’m not quite sure if I’d made the climb at about 35° C…
The fortress itself is closed to public, but you can visit the cathedral – a little gem on top of the rocks.
When it’s time to leave the historic quarter in favor of the Old Town you may stroll down the hill enjoying occasional views, narrow alleyways & well-kept houses as well as less well-kept houses, however, all of them w/ a certain charm.
I admit that I was a little obsessed w/ doors & gates, windows & balconies when walking in the old quarter of the town. Finally I had lots of photos capturing the white buildings, the brown wooden doors, the sparkling blue blinds…
…& of course they were some cafés & bars, here & there, already open, waiting for exhausted tourists…
The harbour front seems endless…
…on both sides of the port.
…& here we have one of the iconic lighthouses in white & red!
Cruising the island meant discovering deserted beaches although I think some weeks later there will be people, people, people… relaxing on the fine sand. We catched a glimpse of quite a lot of these inviting coves shielded by rocks.
The more we went into Ibiza’s Northern coast region the more secluded seems the landscape. Here & there are single villas, the roads tend to get smaller & steeper & more winding. Sometimes you spot a water lorry. Villages are… small – a road, some houses…
Some villages have their own church – always there are these white walls, the wooden gates, single olive trees.
Next to the church in the centre of the village there is a café, a bar, a restaurant where people chill in the afternoon sun. My better half & I chatted about if some of them were hippies – like hippie veterans. We noticed colorful long wide skirts, crocheted waistcoats, leather boots, sun-tanned faces… I was reminded of the 70s & 80s w/ their counterculture. BTW you can also stumble upon them in well-known cafés in Ibiza’s old town district… a classic Ibiza bag over the shoulder.
We were always enchanted when coming back to Talamanca to our room w/ a view where we relaxed on our balcony before strolling to one of the bars at the beach.
It was our 1st visit to Ibiza. We enjoyed the week to the full!
For the record:
Next to Ibiza there is Formentera, the smallest of the Balearic islands. There is no airport on Formentera. If you want to go to Formentera you’ll have to fly to Ibiza & then take a ferry. (We didn’t do this during our „short“ chill-out-week.)
In the 80s my ex & I went to Formentera more than once – so I was in Ibiza, however, only for touch-down & take-off – and maybe a day trip. In those days Formentera was an island w/ few hotels, few cars, few tourists… & beautiful natural beaches. The ferry was a rather small motor-boat transferring people 3-4 times a day (no space for cars!). Today there are big speed-ferries w/ car load capacities running every hour or so… during daytime.
I am a little curious what had become of my little Formentera! (Maybe we’ll make a trip over there soon.)
Once again ou reliable travel companion*:
Adios, Es Vedrà!